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Short Escape to Ukraine. Day 1.1: Kiev for the Night

Modern airport, middle aged bloke with a hip Klitschko beanie hat, uninterestingly shaking hands with someone he’s introduced to in the currency exchange queue at the airport. Lots of neatly presented young women on their phones. Fat, grumpy, older women serving behind counters. Language may be a bit of an issue here, this isn’t like the rest of Europe where you can rely on the fact that everyone speaks a modicum of English. They don’t. I locate confirmation from Ukraine International Airlines that there will be no flight into Simferopol until April. So putting aside any forthcoming admin nonsense for a potential refund on that part of the flight and my hire car, am heading into Kiev. But I change up the £30 I had left in my wallet and move outside to locate the 322 into town.

18h46, 21.03.2014: Am on the bus. Clean straight road heading into central Kiev, about 45 minutes away. To all intents, just another prosperous eastern European city. Going to go straight to the railway station in the hope that I might be able to catch a sleeper south this evening or suss out what options there are. And surely someone there would know whether I’d be allowed into Crimea (‘Crim’ they pronounce it).

At the railway station I’m immediately accosted by various hawkers with alcoholic breath, I play hide and seek with them for a bit then queue at a ticket window after seeing that there’s a train that leaves tonight bound for Simferopol. After 20 minutes queueing I’m told by another fat grumpy lady that it’s sold out so I go down to the platform to see if I can just get on anyway. I once, maybe 1997, got a train all the way from Mumbai to Calcutta for free this way but no luck here. Every entrance to the train has a guard wearing a really large hat, indicating that they mean business so I retreat back upstairs for a ham and cheese roll (bonus: coriander), beer and a Bounty then queue for another twenty minutes for another fat and grumpy lady to see if I can get a ticket for tomorrow. With a bit of help from a kind woman who clocks the communication breakdown, I walk away a little later, ticket in hand. Looks like I’m going to Crimea after all. And this on the day that the BBC has as its headline: Putin Signs Crimea Annexation.

I haggle for a 40 hryvnia taxi (started at 100, thank you) to the Chillout Hostel not far away. Settle into a dorm, head to a 24 hour coffee shop for a couple of hours so find myself up until 03h20. The guy in the bunk below has obviously been placed there to test me.

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Short Escape to Ukraine. Day 1: Get to Ukraine

12h50, I’m in the air and above the clouds already. Seatbelts off.

I booked this flight a fortnight ago. Yes I had just returned from the pub but at the time I wasn’t working and saw this as a little opportunity to do something different; to get me a mini-adventure. A UK to Ukraine return flight at less than £300 is money bloody well spent for someone who’s otherwise sitting around twiddling their thumbs/ jobhunting. In the two weeks since booking though, I’ve now got a couple of job offers – so all the more reason to make hay whilst the sun shines.

What’s the big idea? What kind of hay are you making? I’m not quite sure but I have my camera, I have this here laptop and I have intrigue and a want to just see what’s going on out here and share, if it is that I do chance upon anything of note. I also have a workout schedule of sorts to keep. London Marathon is only three weekends away and I keep getting emails from the charity I’m running for telling me that I’m supposed to be tapering. I’ve been tapering for about 6 months now. So shooting, typing, reading, exercise, travel. All good.

Woke up this morning to my phone (Google Now) telling me that the second leg of my flight was cancelled. That’s the Kiev to Simferopol bit which would take me into Crimea as originally intended. No surprise, but not what I wanted. First thoughts are to now have tonight out and about in Kiev, and speak to whoever I can about what would happen if tomorrow morning I took the train down to Crimea. Would I even be able to get in if I got down there? If the bloke at the gates is Russian then he’ll want me to have a visa, which I don’t have. So if I really cannot get into Crimea I’ll travel around as much as I can, maybe keeping close to the Black Sea, we’ll see, until I fly back next Weds 26th morning.

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UK to Africa Cycle Trip Lessons Learnt

I already find myself saying that this trip was one of the best things I’ve done in my life. I didn’t want to stop. If the girls were with me and getting back to reality to earn money wasn’t necessary, I would have just kept on going. I don’t say that lightly, I would have.

Right now I’m sat in a bar in Briviesca and I have that feeling that every evening brings. You feel hotter than normal, slightly puffy eyed/face, exhausted but not wanting to sleep but knowing I should.

The whole experience has been brilliant. Something else. I’ve hurt and I’ve questioned what I think I’m playing at but then you do, don’t you, in things like this.

Again, I’m sat on my bed in a hostal in Plasencia and feel that hot, puffiness. Knowing I need to sleep but not wanting to.

Lessons Learnt

  • Choose the correct frame size. Mine was a 56cm frame. I’m 6′ and ideally should have gone for a 54cm frame. Not a biggie but if I were a pedant of a peddler.
  • Disc brakes are good. Had a had normal ones, getting through some of the mud would have been even worse.
  • Waterproofs are good. Don’t buy Sealskinz gloves though.
  • The French are more welcoming and interested than the Spaniards. Sorry Spain that’s just the way I saw it (had actually expected the reverse).
  • Dependency on phones. Not a great deal one can do but it’s still as if we’re in the dark ages for data roaming.  Add a roaming premium if you can, so as not to blow loads on data charges.
  • Phone batteries are crap and there’s not a lot we can do about that at the mo. Switch off the radios you’re not using as you go. And get a back up charger.
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Inspiration for a Bicycle Ride

A few weeks ago I went to the 3rd birthday party evening for EscapeTheCity.org (the only organisation I’ve ever invested in). Some of it I didn’t connect with so much but all of it was interesting and inspirational. The adventuring part rang loudest for me: The idea of setting yourself a challenge and just doing something adventurous, even something small so that it’s affordable in time and money.Like Alistair Humphries walking around the M25, something that’s a little unknown, perhaps risky, challenging but actually quite doable. If only you just take the first steps, the next ones are bound to follow.

Well, I’ve been a little weary of my current contract for some time, and have wanted to ‘do something different’ (Escape’s strap line) for some time. So there and then it clicked that what with the old man having recently moved out to Seville, and me having a bit of time out coming up, there was the perfect window of opportunity for me to do something: Cycle down to see him. Then even better, complete the ride by making it down to the Costa and hopping over to Maroc. Berkshire to Africa somehow sounding better than Wargrave to Seville.

So on the 10th of December after saying goodbye to the girls before they leave for South Africa for Xmas, I will get on my bike, and cycle. It should be about c.1,300 miles and I’ve warned my father that there’s every chance I might not make it in time for Boxmas. 1300/14=93 miles a day for 2 weeks solid. That’s not a small ask of myself. If I’m up to a week late, that could be 1300/21=62 miles a day. So as I go, I know that I need to be aiming for about a ton a day.

I do however have this vision of finding myself stuck up a mountain in Spain on Christmas eve, dark, cold, lonely as a cloud, blizzard incoming, rear puncture being repaired, drivers covering me in slush, half my kit having been stolen or fallen off along the way. But that’s just not going to happen, is it.

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Mumbai

Gone and done it again. Think that was my…

  1. Stop over in New Delhi aged 7, 1983
  2. Landed back in New Delhi, November 1996 on a round-the-world trip aged 19 for 2 months
  3. Back to Goa, Calcutta and up to Darjeeling in 1997
  4. Drove from through India on the London to Kathmandu 608 tour, 2000
  5. Holiday in Kerala, 2005
  6. Working for the FCO in Mumbai

…6th trip to India.

Got to catch up with me old mucker Paddy out there and also had the new experience of working whilst crawling around amongst rat shit. It’s all good really.

I love this country. Always have done, always will.