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Sofia II

Was due to fly home on Frankie’s year and a half birthday but stayed out there an extra 5 days whilst the project continues to behave erratically. It went a little groundhog day for us, only without the fun of telling people what you think of them and there being no comeback.

A couple of things worth mentioning though:

Between the hotel and the embassy we’d walk through a leafy park where chess is a massive spectator sport. Maybe up to 25 old boys gathered around one little table, with maybe 10 tables thoughout the park, all these elderly gentlemen wearing concentrated frowns and giving it some the strokey-beardy. I’d say that a more worthwhile spectator sport is spectating the spectating.

Said park has a resident moustachioed accordion player, even at 8am. No rest for the wicked.

And if you ever find yourself in need of a meal in Sofia, food will always be served in the order it’s cooked so that as you start to eat, your mate’s just finishing up. And don’t expect any food to be delivered hot, you get luke at best.

Although I can’t really comment on the rest of Bulgaria and it was a shame I didn’t get to see any more than Sofia, I’m afraid to say that won’t be rushing back there.

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Sofia

I’ve been in Bulgaria for a week now so it’s time I JUDGED my time here so far. May even be some top tips here for others heading this way, but unlikely. Excuse my ignorance where applicable.

  1. First off, coming into the airport, I didn’t even realise they used the Cyrillic alphabet here. That script helps to give the place a hint of the Soviet, combined with the 8 story, dirty grey concrete buildings, trams, the accent and waking up to a veritable blizzard on the first morning here
  2. Tourist trail so far: Large domed Eastern Orthordox cathedral named after Alexander Nevski no less(?): impressively large but a 5 minute looksee
  3. The National Art Gallery: what was there was very nice but there just wasn’t a great deal to see.
  4. The National Cultural Centre had a DIY expo on, showing off marvellous wares such as concrete donkeys and all the latest in guttering, pots and tiles. It was packed and people seemed fascinated
  5. The National Military Museum was excellent though, a lot of big cold war hardware and Thracia and 20th century war history here
  6. Veering off topic here but I just looked up the Danube,  which doesn’t come through Sofia but does create most of Bulgaria’s northern border with Romania
  7. Speaking of signs, I’ve also never previously had a bloke standing there at Arrivals with a sign saying SPRATT on it). Quite a moment
  8. Beer is good and cheap, less than £1/pint, which is very welcome. Best so far is Zagorka
  9. I’ve never been offered tripe soup before but this evening’s menu at a great little restaurant called ‘Manastirska Magernica’ made me try some. I gave it my best, then covered it with chili and tried some more but no, not really for me. The soup part probably didn’t help, just boiled full fat milk really. I would try it again, hoping for a better recipe, but nah
  10. The reindeer for main however was very nice, gamey, tastey stuff

[Update, 01.04.2009: Meant to include this amazing site, saw the link at the restaurant I mentioned:  press play on some of the videos, this is exactly what all of Bulgaria is like]